Notre vie en Thaïlande

Almost 50 years ago, a woman who had had difficulty in falling pregnant turned to Wat Pra That at Doi Tung to ask Buddha for her wish for a son. Some nights later, she dreamt that a white horse came to pick her up taking her on a long journey. She fell pregnant & gave birth to a son, Samer Jaipinta.

The boy was a cranky child & the parents turned to a monk who advised them that a horse or elephant would console him. Too expensive for the family, the father drew pictures of a horse & an elephant on the household wall telling his son that the animals were always there with the boy to console and give him courage. The boy became calm, peaceful & properly behaved.

Samer grew up and finished school in his home town of Mae Chan then studied law in Bangkok but discontinued in his third year due to his father's illness. He joined the army cavalry and built up a reputation as a talented boxer (Muay Thai). As the Champion of Thailand, at age 30, he was preparing to fight for the World Championship when he simply gave it all up to be ordained a monk.

The now Pra Samer slipped away to meditate in the jungle caves surrounding Mae Sai & to travel extensively throughout the forested areas near the Thai-Burmese border. This was during the period when the infamous Golden Triangle was trafficking drugs to the world; a time that witnessed great damage to families & communities through drug addiction, kidnapping, prostitution and land control. It was in this atmosphere that Pra Samer was asked to combat the drug war by taking Buddhist teachings to the villages; selected in part on the basis that as a reputed boxer he could defend himself better than most monks!  He needed such skills, on several ocassions being almost killed, indeed shot, by ruthless drug warlords.

Throughout the years, Pra Samer became well-known & respected amongst the hills folk who bestowed upon him the title "Kru Ba". In tall cliffs overlooking the valleys of Mae Chan, Pra Kru Ba selected a tranquil cave setting to practice meditation. Many came to see him for guidance urging him to build a monastery & in turn a temple on the site. Pra Kru Ba ultimately established 10 such monasteries in this remote area of the mountains of northern Thailand serving the neighbouring community, teaching novices and the orphaned,& caring for sometimes wayward hilltribe boys. 

It is common for animists to make an offering when one has had a stroke of luck. It was so when a hilltribesman recovered from sickness & donated a horse to the monastery. Pra Kru Ba realized immediately the important role a horse could play in his administering to the hill-tribes & the monastery quickly became known as "Sumnug Patibaat Dharma Thaam Pa Archa Tong" or the Golden Horse Monastery. Today, every morning at sunrise, novices & the orphans being schooled at the monastery still ride down from the mountains through the ricefields & along rivers to collect food offerings from the village believers. Orange robe clad monks on horseback, offering bowls attached, galloping on their typical asian ponies, many of them bareback, through rice fields & along dirt tracks alongside & through rivers is something special to witness.

Pra Kru Ba is a busy man administering to the hill-tribes & monasteries that he has established in this little accessible mountain region. I can not begin to describe the total joy in the eyes, in the voice & on the face of Myriama when Pra Kru Ba unexpectedly rode up the pathway to the temple trailed by half a dozen monks on horseback following 'taak-baat'; he is, after all travelling throughout the hill-tribes almost year-long.

What a man - he has the face, the SMILE, the aura that goes with such a legend. Supposedly slowed by various gun-shot wounds & poisoning suffered at the hands of drug-lords, you wouldn't know it. Unfortunately he doesn't speak English - he prayed at length & talked from his horse in Thai, then dismounted to give a Muay Thai class to 3 of his former pupils now working in the broader community who he was so pleased to again see. One cant but be moved by what Pra Kru Ba has done for the needy, the disadvantaged, the marginalised, the outcast. Its a potent reminder as one works away to make one's own stack!

If the above interests you, then I urge you to watch the multi-award winning documentary "Buddah's Lost Children". You'll quickly understand why this little seen monk is a legendary figure amongst Thais.

One can study at the Monastery, & yes, I'll be going & riding off for breakfast.........

Its pleasant these nights to eat on the outside verandah watching fire-flies; its part of the 'magic' of Christmas. It made us think about taking a trip north to Doi Tung. 

Doi Tung in Thailand's most northern mountain range is beautiful with views across to Burma & spectacularly out across 'hidden' hill-tribe villages across over the fertile plains of Chiang Rai. The drive up & those around Doi Tung are magnificent with memorable trips along the Thai-Burma border to isolated Akha hill-tribe villages in spectacular settings & to the wonderfully sited Doi Tung Wat.

The King's mother lived here after having spent much of her youth in Switzerland. Upon returning to Thailand she decided to head to the 'Thai alps' & build a Swiss chalet (fit for a King's mother) at around 1700m atop Doi Tung. With wonderful views & a magnificent garden, it leaves a lasting impression. One can visit both the gardens & the Chalet. 

The area was inhabited by many tribes (particularly Akha & Lahu) who grew opium for the warlords. The Queen Mother moved the tribes away from opium to growing vegetables, fruit & flowers; to tourism whilst at the same time providing education & health care. Its quite a developed business nowadays producing its own line of coffee, macadamea nuts, clothes, pottery, etc., & employing around 1500 folk from the hill-tribes.

I best start with a cultural note - for Thais, there are certain 'no nos' associated with the feet which are regarded as the lowest/dirtiest part of the body - one takes one's shoes off when entering a home, one can't point one's feet at a Buddha image, never step over someone or their personal belongings, never stop something from blowing away with one's feet......

Yesterday we were at the markets with our neighbouring Thai friend, Pong. I love the ambience of the markets, food of such incredible variety, of such unparalled freshness & at prices that defy belief. The array of choice & of colour is astounding. Thailand must be the best place, bar none, to eat & to eat well. Its so easy to see that this is a country of cultivaters; the first civilisation on earth to have engaged in agriculture. The markets represent a real microcosm of Thai society.

The market was its usual busy self, though I noticed that not only were motorbikes moving along the tiny & exceptionally busy alleyways amongst the vendors, but, on this occassion, a number of cars also, which gave shoppers absolutely no space in which to move.

We did our shopping & headed home. That night, after a couple of high octane beers, Pong suddenly started to tell a story to the other Thais there-present which went something like this:

'When we were at the markets this morning, we were rushing about the place when a car suddenly came by. With no-where to move quickly & so as to avoid the car, Roderick (or Loderlick as Pong says it) simply took a giant step over produce laid out in two big baskets in front of this little old lady vendor. She, unbeknown to Loderlick, was markedly upset, & I (ie Pong) immediately overheard her saying:'The big white buffalo just walked straight over my stand; that's ruined my luck & good-fortune for today's market.....'

The Thais (at home for the bbq) all burst into great laughter; & yes, I was now known as 'White Buffalo'. Pong explained that he'd been embarrassed to mention what had happened beforehand. He mentioned he'd spoken with the (distraught) lady & explained that as a farang (westerner) I didn't realise what I was doing....that all would be well.

I thought 'White Buffalo' had a certain ring to it, until one of the Thais then laughingly explained that, for them a buffalo represents the greatest ignorance & stupidity! White Buffalo will be heading back to the markets tomorrow to buy a little something from this 'little old lady', if she doesn't first, flee in fear at seeing me1

Hi all,

Just back from around 2500klms down to Bangkok to collect Myriama's mother who has flown over from Tahiti to see us aged 89!

Sped down to BKK stopping just at Lop Buri en route - its true, the place is FULL of monkeys causing mayhem!  Its a great site; out of control. One cant help but laugh (heaps)! 

In to BKK next morning - I'd planned a medical check-up but a series of balls-ups & my getting lost on the expressways without a map led us to decide to head south for the beaches. Planned to go to Hua Hin, but got lost once more, so took the easy option & headed to Pattaya which actually suited us being closer to the airport for the following day's pick-up.

Its true, Pattaya absolutely rocks & it does make King's X look like Sunday School! A stroll along 'walking street' at the southern end of the beach is unforgettable! Bars, girls & more girls, ladyboys, anything you can imagine.........great setting with bars openning up onto the beach, great restos everywhere, nightlife at its max!  

To be sure to get some sleep we stayed at Jomtiem Beach, 1klm south of Pattaya. Swam & had a great meal & plenty of beers whilst lounging in deck-chairs on the beach watching a marvellous sunset.

Drove slowly up to the airport the next day lunching on the docks of a small fishing village along the way. The plane was late so had a great massage whilst waiting.

Today is Visakha Eve - Visakha marks the day of Buddha's birth, death & enlightenment; its the biggest day on the Buddha calendar. Here in CM its something special - thousands of 'pilgrims' accompany thousands of monks as they walk up Doi Suthep to the temple over-looking CM. Matters get underway at 7.59pm (dont ask me why its 7.59!) with walkers arrive at the temple around 2-3 am (yep, HUGE breakfast). I shot over on the bike for a geeek at around 5.30pm - AMAZING!!!!!!!! The road leading up past the Uni to Doi-Suthep is FULL of flowers & other 'offerings'; food & drink stalls line the route up the mountain; areas are set aside for prayers/reflection, places with fans, seating for the tired, transport if necessary, ambulances, areas even to buy new shoes if necessary......I felt compelled to go right to the top.

Headed back down knowing I'd be back later!  Brilliantly prepared floats, Thai (girl) dancers in traditional costume, groups transporting buddha figures, elephant figures, music along the way.......carnival time.

Home to a quick bite/to grab the bride - ready to head off just before 8.30pm & BANG, the BIGGEST storm we've seen. Can imagine the fun they are all having.......

Love Thailand; something new every day!