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10/07/2010 - BEYOND SOP MOEI - May be the BEST in Thailand

2010-07-10T17:33:56+01:00

Almost 60 years ago two American missionaries, a doctor/surgeon & his wife, working in southern Thaland gave birth to a son. Kent Gregory grew up in Thailand before returning to the USA for his secondary & tertiary studies in public health. He met & married a Swedish child psychologist/child-maternal health specialist before they returned to Thailand in the mid-seventies determined to apply their skills to the welfare & advancement of the hill-tribe people of northern Thailand.

They were looking to find a preliterate tribe who'd had little if any contact with westerners & the search led them to the still most isolated areas along the Thai/Burmese border near Mae Sariang. Basically Kent had a by-chance meeting in Mae Sariang with an English speaking Burmese man who just trecked (fled) for many days through the jungle from Burma into Thailand. On the way he had encountered a Karen tribe living near the Salween River where it divides Thailand from Burma. Kent found a guide, got clear instructions & then walked for over two days through the mountains & jungle of this part of Thailand to find the tribe - as well as the leeches, he remembers the leopards & hundres of gibbons he saw.

By 1977 Kent had spent sufficient time amongst this & neighbouring tribes to have become fluent in their language - he actually used a card system to compile a dictionary over several years which unfortunately he did not maintain/publish so that to date still no dictionary exists for these Karen people (the Pwo) - to be able to negotiate with village leaders to be able to stay. The Karen are animists & their agreement was conditional that Kent's installation not be in the existing Karen village but in an abandoned, former village site nearby - the Karen were semi-nomadic at that time.

We stayed with Kent for 4 days in this magic corner he calls home. I lie not in saying that it is not only the best garden that I have seen in Thailand, but the best home in which one could stay. It has something, a soul, that springs from it's occupying a former villlage site using existing access mechanisms, water supply, building materials & so on, tranformed through the sheer beauty of the garden that Kent has established over almost 35 years. To be awoken by the 'bird's choir of a 1000 birds' is something special. This is not a millionaire's house where money has secured the 'chosen' block & planted out the 'designed' garden; its the 'no choice' block that has been transformed into what millionaires dream of. The house/s are open in style with large verandahs, built of local teak logged by Kent himself, rooves thatched from local leaves. There is no electricity, no telephones; 'ofuro' style bathrooms. You are in complete tranquility resting at home or walking about the gardens, exploring the surrounding streams, orchards he's planted, rice paddies & so on.

When Kent & his wife arrived, their goal was to set up a maternity, child care, nutrition service for the neighbouring tribe/s. It was a difficult task with village priests being resistant to such intervention. For many years Kent & his wife moved by elephant between what grew to become 17 Karen villages carrying their medical supplies (you may recall the extreme danger of working with male elephants that I covered in an earlier report from Hongsa in Laos). You have to understand that there were no roads, no shops; in fact Kent would walk once or twice a month to Mae Sariang, the closest town, a journey of around 80 kls (but 'UP & DOWN' like you can only imagine) which took 18 hours each way! It was a 'task' despite the spectacularly magnificent views afforded over the mountian heights of Thailand & Burma. The elephants would join him in town before returning ladened with supplies (Kent always walked as it was faster than the elephants moved). It was an area not without danger where gunfire emminating from Burma could be heard regularly - Kent told me of a time a guide came by with 2 german & a french trecker; they asked for directions to a certain camp where the heads of the Karen armies fighting the Burmese government had installed their families for reasons of safety. Kent advised them of the way to learn later that the guide had been murdered, his body thrown in the river & the trackers returned to their starting point down river!

During this period they had a daughter, but sadly Kent's wife passed away - a mole was removed but no biopsy was performed which proved fatal. It was not an easy existence for someone widowed early bringing up a young child; indeed he brought up & continues to raise several other Karen children in most cases where a mother dies during child-birth. He also ensures the on-going education of many tribal children who otherwise would not have access to secondary or tertiary education.

After a period of time Kent realised that despite his efforts & relative success the tribal children still lacked an acceptable level of nutrition. It was apparent to Kent that he had to initiate a commercial system within the villages, something that would generate revenue so as to enable the villagers to purchase the additional nutritional needs of their children. Kent knew that almost all Karen woman could weave textiles (they are the recognised experts in this area) & the men baskets - for those not aware of the hill-tribes in Thailand have a look at any web-site covering the subject to see the brilliant textiles these tribes have produced over the centuries - so he set-up a business ' Sop Moei Arts' (www.sopmoeiarts.com) to produce the required income.

Kent lives in a simple house & has constructed a number of other buildings scattered amongst the gardens to accommodate the weavers who come from close-by villages. He has also established weaving centres in several other out-lying vilages. Its easy to pass the day amidst the hand-made teak looms watching the women work clad in their finest creations - the patterns & colours tell you a great deal; whether the wearer is married, for example, whether from the mountains or the valleys, from what particular tribe & so on. The woman are often tatooed though I dont know the significance. Some smoke hand-made pipes - a great sight! We dined with two of the ladies one night, one woman's husband & some of their children - I say some of the children as we were told through one woman's daughter who speaks English (Kent sends her to school in Chiang Mai) that her mother was 43 with 6 children the oldest of which was 28 - you can do the maths! Food remains traditional & Kent continues to eat similarly - a local vegitable on this occassion mixed with a paste derived from crushed (after boiling) jackfruit seeds mixed with dry fish & chillies (Ken had prepared an accompanying meal derived from freshly picked bamboo shoots, washed down from coffee grown, roasted & ground on the property).

Amongst the male basket weavers was a man who fled Burma some 17 years ago but still returned from time to time to Burma I was told on insergency missions! We also walked to & through a neighbouring village & to the steep hillsides to watch them farm - the climbs & descents absolutely knocked us out & we marvelled at the way the Karen could carry vegetables, wood or children approximateing their own body weight with ease (& without losing kilos in perspiration!)

This place is SOOOOO good that the King of Sweden brought his wife & 2 children including his just married daughter to stay a couple of years ago; a stay outside any duties of state, a stay not known to many, to be simply at ease, away from the normal 'controls' of their life. Kent recalled that on one occassion he took the family to an absolutely authentic Karen village high up in the mountains with a magnificent view over Burma, a trip that necessitated, in view of the sheer climb, that they ride elephants. The tribe had no idea they were coming & clearly no idea as to the identity of their visitors. As the King moved openly & freely amongst the villagers he turned to the Queen & said : 'all my life I've been looking to be able to do this, to spend a day like this'!

As wonderful as it all is, the reality of living in such isolation was brought home to us during our visit as the uncle of one of Kent's adopted children fell from the top of a coconut tree with a horrible thud. After many hours traversing the worst possible terrain he has been found to have fractured his spine & we are awaiting news surrounding damage to any organs.

A 'road', if you can call it that, was recently cut along the tracks once trod by Kent. It is not an all-weather road; impassable from the end of June through to early October each year. It takes 3.5 hrs in the best of times. Kent mentioned on our arriving by this road in early July was the first he'd ever seen anyone passing that way in July which shows how dry Thailand has been over recent months. It is nonetheless in terrible shape, dangerously slippery & rutted, deteriorating quickly, as it does, at the sign of any rain. The King of Sweden actually used this road when he came one December but had to abandon his car en route! More alarming, the fellow who fell from the coconut tree had to be removed from the jungle along this same road - the pain must have been unbearable - before medical transport could be arranged.
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There is another equally time consuming but incredibly spectacular way into Mae Sariang which involves taking a 3 hour boat trip along 3 separate rivers & through 4 separate military check-points (3 thai & 1 Burmese). Kent would use this route (& still does) when the supplies to be carried were not of a great quantity. We decided to return by this way much to the delight of our necks, backs & butts! This is a unique & absolutely magic voyage. It is not possible for tourists, indeed anyone without 'reason', to travel by this way (the whole area where we were travelling is a military zone accommodating two large refugee camps & access is now strictly controlled by the military - even by car we were only permitted to enter as we were staying with Kent). One descends initially by the Yuam River (how magic was the riverside bording) then along the larger Moei River to where it meets the Salween, the only major waterway in S-E Asia still not damed, giving it a certain majesty, a certain naturalness. You travel up-stream along the Salween - its is exceptionally turbulent & wide where the waters of the Yuam & Moei moving in one direction meet those of the Salween moving in the opposite direction & the turbalance over the centuries has forced the Salween to literally change course for a moment leaving a sanded area, a bend in the river of rare beauty. Disembarkment is at the interestingly set & very isolated riverside town of Mae Sam Lep. Its then a further hour by 4x4 to Mae Sariang.

Kent told me that when using the boat access he would be met by his elephants at an 'outpost' from one of the now refugee camps. On occassions when he was late, he'd leave his goods with the men at the outpost who he knew well/found quite charming & collect them the next morning by elephant. After many years he learnt that they constituted an assassination squad who would murder & throw into the river all those sent their way as being suspected of spying/infiltrating the refugee camps. By means of background, the Karen army which held out against the Burmese for many years was made up of both Christian & Buddhist Karen; the Christians kept all the important positions to themselves to the extent that in an act of great treachery the Buddhists told the Burmese of the way into the 'stronghold'. The Christians fled & control was handed to the Buddhists.....the Christians remain concerned/paranoid by the possibility of Buddhist infiltration into their (refugee) camps.

Enough for now; we'll return in September to climb to the authentic Karen hill-tribe village that the King of Sweden loved so much. Things are changing even in this 'neck of the woods'. How very lucky we are to have seen it now.

04/07-2010 - RAIN ROCKETS

2010-07-05T09:12:32+01:00

Headed out yesterday afternoon to the mountains east of Chiang Mai - absolutely beautiful ride out through the rice fields & buffalo, an abundance of wonderful teak houses & spectacular mountain scenery. In the hills behind San Kamphaeng overlooking a large reservoir thousands of locals gathered amidst much fun & laughter, much music & merriment, much food & drink to launch rockets to please the gods so as to ensure good rains for the season ahead.

A massive launching platform some 25m high with a long access ramp had been built from bamboo. Rockets were waiting, stored & being fine-tuned in areas under the surrounding trees - its a wonderful sight to see these creations suspended from the trees, drapped in flowers & the cloth of monks, their support team, monks & all, seated thereunder.

There's a competition to judge the firings; a competition which assesses the trajectory of each firing. The rockets, & there are 100's of them, are standardised for fairness being constructed using a bamboo pipe about 1.5m long & around 12cm in diameter filled with gunpowder & firmly attached to a long bamboo shoot to give an overall length approximating 20m. The judging panel is formally seated & headed by the abbott of the local wat (temple) seated in his robes & surrounded by various offerings for the fish of the lake & money 'trees' for the temple. There's a scoreboard - a firing which fails to ignite scores '0', those that explode on take-off 50, but the vast majority are assessed on how high & how straight they fly.

You can bet on the outcome & I was STUNNED to see the bets 'being taken' by monks - a pragmatic way to ensure fairness!

5 or 6 men surrounded by monks & teams of chanting musicians carry the rockets one by one to the launching pad. The rockets are carried up the launching pad & put in place. One fellow remains with a 2m pole to light the rocket which he does from a well protected area atop the launching pad - one wonders about their hearing though as the rockets sound like fighter jets on take-off.

The idea is that the remains of the rockets fall into the dam area way below. Its quite dangerous (ie, great fun) - the crowd gathers quite near-by & we saw several rockets blow up literally straight off the launching pad, straight over our heads. Two years ago one such explosion caused a piece of bamboo to be embedded in a spectator's head (yes, its my sort of day!) At times the rockets fly off in completelty the wrong direction, much to the amusement of those present, flying straight over-head for the hills & not the dam!

Its a good day out (as is the 'party-mode' night that follows) & can you believe it - this morning, the day after the firings, the Thailand Meteological Department has issued a warning for heavy rain, even flooding over the next 4 days for most of Thailand!

26/06/2010 WARREN'S FARM

2010-06-26T08:24:00+01:00

Warren, an englishman who spent many years in South Africa had asked us out to his farm about an hour to the north-east of Chiang Mai, so we headed out yesterday for lunch.

Warren had bought a former rice paddy in a pleasantly remote area with a very old teak worker's cottage consisting of 5 consecutive 3x3 rooms all in a straight line. The rennovations Warren has performed are sensational. It reminds me of the Glen Murcatt/Crackenback Farm

Warren loves animals; he has them everywhere! You swing up the beautiful tree-planted driveway past several lotus-filled ponds fed by natural springs; the ponds filled with geese, ducks of every kind & large fish (taptim). You ride through pigs & cattle, past dogs & ever more varieties of bird.

We were greated by Warren & his 'team', many adopted & educated by warren & is wife. We were welcomed with a glass of lemon tea freshly brewed from leaves on the farm, mixed with honey (yes, from the farm). We then tried the home-made roselle which was so good i had 3.....Warren had told me it was good for the health & it slipped down giving a certain feeling of goodness!

We went for a tour of the farm - EVERY animal had a name!!!! We released 100 guinnea fowls from their barn (held there in the laying/mating season as their eggs are destroyed by water (its rainy sseason here). They follow Warren wherever he 'calls'. When the eggs are laid he picks them up & places them under a multitude of hens that he has nesting alongside! Great stuff!

We stroll out through banana, mango, avocado & orange orchards past the coffee plantation - yep Warren has the BEST coffee - out past the squirrel cage, currently occupied by fan-tail doves as he wants the eggs for offspring, past the incubation area for the 100s of chicks of all speciees already born, down to the kennels - (pedigree) labradours, one of which had 10 puppies (9 boys) 2 days earlier. All the pigs & piglets lob up to say g'day - one of them - Maggie - lies down next to Warren when he lies down in the grass! As I say EVERY animal has a name, even the fish (!) & yes Warren is the total vegetarian.

Into the house, Maggie the pig happy to join us; one of the squirrels is there (chews at pieces of the teak in the house though).... this place is incredible (I can see W/S; what a chance we were there on her b/d). By the way, there are staff everywhere so the place is 'nickel'!

Its virgin country with springs, rivers, waterfalls & surrounded by dence jungle - only 2 years ago tigers took 2 cows at little over a kilometre from the house!

Back to a massive lunch & more roselle....... I'd missed the hint when Warren said it was 'good for you'.......boy oh boy, did the diahrea hit, so much so I had to cancel going to dinner that evening!

I thought we'd had an eccentric day until I arrived home to find an email from Michael wishing me a happy birthday! Being 26th June it was exactly 1 month early! Mate, the vino in Portugal must be good!

04/04/2010 - LISU AND PALONG

2010-04-04T08:27:00+01:00

Just back from a trip worthy of a quick note to you. I've been a little 'slower' on reporting of late (intrigued by 'entertain me'
lobbers; enjoying those who respond). I've a good friend here - Stu Lloyd - we meet regularly at the local pub to watch the rugby tests & after 6 or more months learnt that we went to the same bloody school (R'view). We left decades apart; though you wouldn't know it looking at us!!!

Stu is a gregarious chap & through a (Lisu) contact, Mimi, 'put us onto' a gathering of the Lisu hill-tribe that was to take place way up in the isolated mountains of northern Thailand. We left early on our motorbikes, caught Stu who'd been covering the King's Cup Elephant Polo & rode to the Lisu village. They are an exceptionally proud tribe, super competitive/always wish to win, & they dress in a mind-boggling array of colour (yep Myriama is in 7th heaven). We lobbed in to the village & there they were thousands & thousands of them all dressed in traditional costume; an unforgetable sea of colour. Mimi explained the ceremonies - offerings to the guardian spirit, the endless dancing, indeed who could dance with who & why, the musical instruments made from bamboo, & various large seeds........

It was a picture frenzy. Time flew as our jaws dropped & our cameras clicked. A major ceremony was marked for 7pm, when Myriama's nose 'smelt rain'. We were miles away from any town, any accommodation (the thatched huts of the Lisu were already bursting from the seams with the thousands of Lisu that had descended on the village). We jumped on the bikes & bolted - what a ride it was - a full moon, the rain clouds rushing about the moon, the winds literally howling over the mountain tops pushing the bikes sideways. Down & down we rode through scenery made even more magnificent by the eerie light of a full moon. We reached 'civilisation' some 40 minutes later, filled the bikes with petrol & down it came - what a storm; we sat in the dry at the pertrol station for an hour.

Stayed at a resort we were told over dinner had 'monsters' We arrived to hear the 'ung ang' (spelling) belching out this most horrible sound from the waterfall/river. With our wedding anniversary approaching, being a romantic (as are all Ozzies), took the bride for a surprise trip to the 'Switzerland of Thailand' (Doi Ang Khang) - good spot to chill out - cool all year round, nice hotel, area grows temperate climate fruit & vegies, magic garden......

Its also smack on the border with Burma, so I had to see if I ride out along the border. Rode out past a Lahu tribal village & into a Palong Village where the Thai army were stationed & the road closed by the military - two sizeable, fortfified posts of the Burmesse army directly opposite atop strategic hills. I tried talking the armed guards into letting me past, then the officers in the outpost up above. Part of the reason I wished to take the road (despite its absolutely deplorable condition), was because I'd read old articles where people rode (forget the car!) the rode because it simply defied any logic that any engineer could build a road with such a steep gradiant - I've no idea of the nunbers but its STEEP! For some reason just before 5pm I got the go ahead ('be back by 6', I was told) - its a great sense of freedom to be riding out in such a place under such conditions. Passed a couple of control points - its very much military with arms flag you down, tell you to stop your bike & get off; ask for i/d, where you are heading, search you & the bike.......Eventually you get the officer in charge & chat your way to be let go further. A great ride; must explore some more.

I spoke of the Palong tribe - these guys (2000 of them) fled into Thailand from Burma in 1984; they are the only Palong in Thailand. It is absolutely MAGIC to see them working the fields in their traditional hand-woven attire - fantastic full-length red dresses, very colourful short cut jackets embroided with silver & tassels, belts of silver & other natural fibres...... They dont speak any english - the only phrase they seemed to know was: "I love you" (with lots of giggling) which was fine from the younger girls but not so flattering from the occassional older woman with missing teeth a mouth stained from betel-nut!

I had to take Myriama back the next day.......she has a rare touch; within minutes Myriama was hand in hand with one younger Palong, with her other arm around an older woman as we strolled off through the village to the home of the younger girl's grandparents (aged 82 & 84) for Myriama to buy some jackets.

Time to go

13/03/2010 - NATIONAL ELEPHANTS DAY

2010-03-13T08:28:00+00:00

Just back from lunch with 100 odd elephants!

National Elephant Day here. For Buddhists -Thailand is 95% buddhist - the elephant ranks second only to humans in the order of things. A veritable feast for the elephants - MASSIVE bamboo tables are laid out & ladened with literally tons of bananas, watermellons, sugar-cane..... the elephants, their blue-clad mahouts atop, assemble at the table in a most orderly fashion to create a most organnised formal affair.

The elephants pass their weeks away entertaining tourists - its a good show, in fact, with the elephants playing soccer, darts (against a team selected at random from the spectators), showing their strength with logging tasks for which they were originally used in Thailand, even painting canvasses some that sell for tens of thousands of dollars. The concept of an elephant having a long memory can clearly be seen in the art - the ''painters' have clear styles that are readily identifiable in their work.

09/02/2010 - TRIBAL MUSEUM

2010-02-09T08:31:00+00:00

Headed back to the floating restaurants overlooking the Tribal Museum - always a total hit with anyone you take there. Crowded as usual with locals, music playing, great ambience; its a magic spot! We then headed to dinner at the Thai style restos down near Chiang Mai Pratu - things on the menu looked good so we ordered for 5 (we were 3) much to the dismay of the waitress - great food, the place is right next to the markets. Grabbed the bill............125THB (ie just a tick over $4 Oz!).

Headed towards Thaepae Gate & stopped for the fish foot massage. You could hear the screams & laughter from Moana & Emilia as the thousands of fish swarmed over their feet....we all know that Moana is loud but this really took the cake - out of control!

Headed to the Rooftop for a beer - still a very 'cool' spot. Then down Loi Kroh to show Moana where Marc had been beseiged by girls, a quick tour through the Night Bazaar then home.

Tomorrow we're off out through the remote mountains out past Mae Rim, past Samoeng to Pong Khaow, its isolated hot springs, a 2 hour massage & lunch before heading home down past an Hmong hill-tribe area.

27/11/2009 - 10.000 MONKS. FEED YOUR MONKS.

2009-11-27T08:37:00+00:00

This morning, before daybreak, we headed to Nimmanheiman Road to see the most impressive spectacle - "10,000 Monks", billed to start at 6.09am with the first rays of sunlight. Monks, it is said 10,000 of them, from many areas around Chiang Mai & from neighbouring countries, gather to pray at the break of dawn before taak-baat, the great buddhist tradition of devotees giving alms daily to their monks.

There is something special, something moving, something quite spiritual to witness such a gathering, to observe the piety & sincerity of believers, to just simply see the 'sea of orange'. Well before dawn, tens of thousands of buddhist faithful were in place, sitting mostly in the lotus position, hands clasped in a wei, piously following the prayers & mantras of their spiritual leaders. The 'carpet' on which the barefooted monks would pass was laid out before them; thousands of monks were grouped in 'walls of orange' at various strategic points....when they move to collect the offerings its a moment of total magic.

One cant help but notice how substantial are the offerings, especially when one considers the likely income of those making such offerings; one cant help but be struck by the generosity of all present so willing to give an offering to those foreigners clearly devoid of an offering of their own; one cant help but feel the warmth of a people so moved to see foreigners interested by & participating in their Buddhist culture. The monks move through in an orderly fashion forming 4 lines throughout the length off Nimmanheiman Road, a couple of kilometres at least - 10,000 barefooted monks in 4 massive lines of orange surrounded on both sides by devotees 'seated' in respectful prayer.

If you wish to preserve Thai culture - 'Feed Your Monks!'

05/11/2009 - JAE SORN, MAE KAMPONG, SUKHOTAI

2009-11-05T08:28:00+00:00

What a magnificent outing it is to ride, each on a motorbike, out through Jae Sorn & down through Mae Kampong; indeed it was the 2nd time for me in only a week!

We headed off at 7am to catch the early rays of sun & to participate in taak-baat. Its a (very) steep climb to Jae Sorn but well worth it for the vista - the wonderful mountain scenery, the chance to pass through relatively isolated true Thai villages, to see the buffalo worked rice fields half gold, half green depending on the stage of the growth of the rice.
There's little traffic - not surprising when one sees at one point a roadway TOTALLY collapsed, washed away by heavy rains, falling away hundreds of metres, both sides, below you. Jae Sorn is 1300m above sea level (Chiang Mai 300m). Despite the best planning, towards the top of the ride, at around 1400m, we rode through thick fog -invigorating but freezing! How good was to arrive at the beautiful National Park of Jae Sorn, to plunge into the warm hot springs before settling down for a wonderful 2 hour massage!

Back on the road, a 'wild ride' from the national park, down steep declinds, across roadside streams, past waterfalls, through huge trees (one tree had actually fallen across the road necessitating we carry the bikes over the fallen tree with the help of some by-chance passers by blocked in their car), down to the wonderful village of Mae Kampong. MK is an eco village built over 3 levels rising up against the mountains. An ancient opium growing area now thriving on its natural beauty. Absolutely brilliant wooden architecture, good restos, blazing fireplaces......just a great overall ambience.

We took 11 hours to complete the trip & loved every moment (as well as the Guiness at the pub upon our return!)

SUKHOTHAI/LOY KRATHONG
Jae Sorn is a 'good workout' but nothing could stop us heading off to Sukhothai the next day for Loy Krathong. Sukhothai (Rising of Happiness) was Siam's (Thailand's) first capital, around 50sq klms of fabulous architecture & religious art, absolutely mind boggling remnants from the 13th century. It was in Sukhothai that Loy Krathong first started.

LK in Sukhothai is so good one can well understand the desire of so many Asian countries to now conduct their own LK ceremonies, especially Yi Peng or the launching of huge lit lanterns! The event runs for 4 days, 5.30am to after mid-night. There's just so much to do. The Thais are there en masse to celebrate their culture.

We came for the finale on day 4, in particular to witness the absolutely brilliant light & sound performance at Wat Mahathat, the floating krathong ceremony & traditional firework display on Tra Pang Tra Khon. This whole experience is beyond words (even for me!). Its said a picture paints a thousand words, so I feel compelled to post some photos to do justice to this most wonderful, most spectacular of events. Myriama is adament - this is THE best ceremony she has ever witnessed (& that is a HUGE call after the Heiva in Tahiti). This one can blow you away, reduce you to tears, leave you gob-smacked!!!

30/10/2009 - KAREN HILLTRIBE

2009-10-30T09:29:00+00:00

I have just returned from a couple of days with a Karen hilltribe out past Wat Chan; a trip offering unique insight into the daily life of the Karen, their culture & aspirations.

We drove up with Chi, a Karen driven by his pride to be Karen & his desire to reinstill such pride in his tribe through a 'renewal' of Karen tradition & culture. He is at the forefront of the maintenance of traditional Karen music & instruments. He got his love for such music through his father & it was great to see them singing & playing together with Chi's wife. Chi is also currently negotiating at the villlage, local & national government levels to have certain areas in his village set aside for 'birth' & 'death' forrests. Briefly, when a Karen child is born, the umbilical cord is washed & placed in a bamboo container & then attached to a particular tree in a particular forrest in the belief that the strongest trees give the baby the strongest life. It is also said that a person's spirit always remains in the village despite whatever travels it may undertake. At death the bones of Karens are buried with trees, fruit & flowers being planted over them the ensure they have plenty in the next life.

We moved throughout the village, at one time stopping in the home of a Karen woman to watch her weaving then hand-sowing the textiles for which the Karen are famous, on this occassion decorating with seeds this particular group of the Karen (the Sgaw) use.

We stayed with Chi's parents, the Karen are a very warm & welcoming people. Chi's father taught English in the villge for almost 40 years. He has a degree in English from all that time ago. He rarely has the chance to speak with native english speakers & was very happy to have the chance to brush up on the linguistics.

Home centred around a traditional Karen house - a wood & bamboo structure consisting of a porch with floor level sink, then a single room with a central fire for cooking. It burns all day & (salt-flavoured) tea is always on hand. Chi's mother, a quiet & reserved woman, a wonderful woman, seems to cook all day for all & sundry. Everything is done at floor level; no tables & chairs. All meals take place here with all the family present. Visitors eat first with the father of the house followed by all others present. Meals were typically Karen - rice based dishes accompanied by bamboo shoots, pumpkin leaves or flowers, beans & other vegetables, some pork, chili....& salty tea. At breakfast we had rice with a pumpkin sauce.

This 'hut' is the focal point. A 'standard' home has been constructed alongside. Guests all slept down stairs; the Karen have a particularly strong set of moral values. You sleep on the floor or a bed with a mattress as good as the floor! The place has all the 'practicalities' one would expect - pigs out the back, outside loo, fruit & vegies growing all about the place, chickens all around, cat, dogs, no hot water, COLD 'bath' at night by bucket, tons of cut wood stored for the cold winter nights. It was interesting wandering about the dirt roads of the village to see traditionally clad woman pounding rice in the backyard using ancient foot driven pounders, & to see water buffalo yarded under the teak houses.

The village is situated at almost 1000m above sea level so the nights are 'refreshing'. Its a beautiful setting - rolling hills, big natural pine forrests, scenic rice paddies & a pleasant outlook. The Karen are known for their care of their green enviroment & this is the first village I've seen decorated with many colourful trees, hedges & flowers; usually hill-tribes are too busy in the fields to have time for such matters. With the road from Pai to Wat Chan just sealed (from the Samoeng side its a muddy slide through the wild) the area is set to boom; it's already booming with land prices recently doubling. The Karen are understandably upset as the amounts now commanded for land are beyond their means & other tribes are moving in via 'farang' with whom they've 'hooked up'. Disturbingly, I actually spoke with one such 'farang', a guy from Hawaii, who told me he 'couldn't give 2 hoots about locals & their traditions'.

An interesting paradox to end. Chi married the daughter of the village (Karen) Baptist minister. The Karen believe they are god's first born & will be returned to their rightful position when they are given back god's book which they 'lost' many centuries before. The book is to be returned by the white man representing the third born of the family!

29/08/2009 - AKHA SWING CEREMONY

2009-08-29T10:34:00+01:00

We headed off from Chiang Mai shortly after sunrise so as to witness the monks floating by in lines determined by superiority for taak-baat (their morning food offerings from believers); a daily ceremony that continues to leave us intrigued & moved.

Northward bound through Chiang Rai, on up to Doi Tung. I'd established a good contact when we visited the Royal Villa & gardens, a 'girl from the mountains' whose family had migrated from Burma several generations ago. Through her I'd been able to determine which Akha villlage was our preferred destination & in turn she'd been liaising with the tribal headman & village priest to ascertain when their Swing Ceremony would take place, to ensure we were welcome to attend.

The area where we were headed is along the actual border between Thailand & Burma. The road one takes is steep, narrow & very windy & incredibly spectacular. Little used, it weaves in & out of the two countries. At times one passes through 'border controls' where armed forces from Thailand look across over armed military from Burma & visa versa. This is the very area/region where the Shan Independance Army is currently fighting the Burmese Army, fighting which has led in recent days only to 30,000 refugees fleeing over the Chinese border. The illegal trafficing of amphetamines is another problem.

We were heading to the Phamee Akha, a village in THE most amazing setting high up in the limestone cliffs looking out over the fertile plains of Chiang Rai province. Arriving to find the older men of the village finalising the installation of the swing, with the ceremonies to start later in the day, we headed to Phahee Village, somewhat higher up the mountain but in an equaly impressive setting......understand, one doesn't even know these places exist until you are 'up there'!

There are 2 dominant landmarks/symbols in an Akha village - the Sacred Gate & the 'Swing'. The Swing Ceremony is unique to the Akha tribe. It falls each year in either August or September varying from village to village depending on when a particular village will harvest its rice. Determined by the village priest such flexibility in dates seems also to ensure that Akha boys, dressed in all their refinery, can move between villages to see the girls from other villages!

The Swing Ceremony is a sacred thanksgiving ritual & form of ancestral worship. Through the ceremony & its associated merry-making, feasting, singing & dancing, the Akha show respect & gratitude to their ancestors, who, in turn, give well-being, welfare & crop abundance to their descendants. The ceremony marks the tribes contact with god, a particular moment in the growing of their rice-fields, a prayer for rain & a subsequent good harvest, & the 'rite of passage' for Akha girls passing into womanhood. Its this later component that makes the ceremony so very spectacular - the girls of the village come dressed in the MOST amazing & colourful of hand-made/hand embroided clothing/costumes. Indigo dyed cotton cloth jackets skirts & 'leg wraps' are embroided in intricate patterns of every possible distictive colour. The most ornate of headware made from silver (they weigh around 5kls each) & colourful beads adorn their heads. Its mind-blowing! The girls laugh their heads off as they launch each other off on this HUGE swing, individually, in pairs, seated, standing.......The swing is set to encapture the brilliant view & setting amidst the limestone karsts - participants are launched with the swing rising to where they surely feel they are flying miles above the earth.

I'll leave it there & let the photos (to follow) do the talking. This is UNBELIEVABLE!

29/08/2009 - MONKS ON HORSEBACK

2009-08-29T09:30:00+01:00

Almost 50 years ago, a woman who had had difficulty in falling pregnant turned to Wat Pra That at Doi Tung to ask Buddha for her wish for a son. Some nights later, she dreamt that a white horse came to pick her up taking her on a long journey. She fell pregnant & gave birth to a son, Samer Jaipinta.

The boy was a cranky child & the parents turned to a monk who advised them that a horse or elephant would console him. Too expensive for the family, the father drew pictures of a horse & an elephant on the household wall telling his son that the animals were always there with the boy to console and give him courage. The boy became calm, peaceful & properly behaved.

Samer grew up and finished school in his home town of Mae Chan then studied law in Bangkok but discontinued in his third year due to his father's illness. He joined the army cavalry and built up a reputation as a talented boxer (Muay Thai). As the Champion of Thailand, at age 30, he was preparing to fight for the World Championship when he simply gave it all up to be ordained a monk.

The now Pra Samer slipped away to meditate in the jungle caves surrounding Mae Sai & to travel extensively throughout the forested areas near the Thai-Burmese border. This was during the period when the infamous Golden Triangle was trafficking drugs to the world; a time that witnessed great damage to families & communities through drug addiction, kidnapping, prostitution and land control. It was in this atmosphere that Pra Samer was asked to combat the drug war by taking Buddhist teachings to the villages; selected in part on the basis that as a reputed boxer he could defend himself better than most monks! He needed such skills, on several ocassions being almost killed, indeed shot, by ruthless drug warlords.

Throughout the years, Pra Samer became well-known & respected amongst the hills folk who bestowed upon him the title "Kru Ba". In tall cliffs overlooking the valleys of Mae Chan, Pra Kru Ba selected a tranquil cave setting to practice meditation. Many came to see him for guidance urging him to build a monastery & in turn a temple on the site. Pra Kru Ba ultimately established 10 such monasteries in this remote area of the mountains of northern Thailand serving the neighbouring community, teaching novices and the orphaned,& caring for sometimes wayward hilltribe boys.

It is common for animists to make an offering when one has had a stroke of luck. It was so when a hilltribesman recovered from sickness & donated a horse to the monastery. Pra Kru Ba realized immediately the important role a horse could play in his administering to the hill-tribes & the monastery quickly became known as "Sumnug Patibaat Dharma Thaam Pa Archa Tong" or the Golden Horse Monastery. Today, every morning at sunrise, novices & the orphans being schooled at the monastery still ride down from the mountains through the ricefields & along rivers to collect food offerings from the village believers. Orange robe clad monks on horseback, offering bowls attached, galloping on their typical asian ponies, many of them bareback, through rice fields & along dirt tracks alongside & through rivers is something special to witness.

Pra Kru Ba is a busy man administering to the hill-tribes & monasteries that he has established in this little accessible mountain region. I can not begin to describe the total joy in the eyes, in the voice & on the face of Myriama when Pra Kru Ba unexpectedly rode up the pathway to the temple trailed by half a dozen monks on horseback following 'taak-baat'; he is, after all travelling throughout the hill-tribes almost year-long.

What a man - he has the face, the SMILE, the aura that goes with such a legend. Supposedly slowed by various gun-shot wounds & poisoning suffered at the hands of drug-lords, you wouldn't know it. Unfortunately he doesn't speak English - he prayed at length & talked from his horse in Thai, then dismounted to give a Muay Thai class to 3 of his former pupils now working in the broader community who he was so pleased to again see. One cant but be moved by what Pra Kru Ba has done for the needy, the disadvantaged, the marginalised, the outcast. Its a potent reminder as one works away to make one's own stack!

If the above interests you, then I urge you to watch the multi-award winning documentary "Buddah's Lost Children". You'll quickly understand why this little seen monk is a legendary figure amongst Thais.

One can study at the Monastery, & yes, I'll be going & riding off for breakfast.........

12/08/2009 - DOI TUNG

2009-08-12T10:38:00+01:00

Its pleasant these nights to eat on the outside verandah watching fire-flies; its part of the 'magic' of Christmas. It made us think about taking a trip north to Doi Tung.

Doi Tung in Thailand's most northern mountain range is beautiful with views across to Burma & spectacularly out across 'hidden' hill-tribe villages across over the fertile plains of Chiang Rai. The drive up & those around Doi Tung are magnificent with memorable trips along the Thai-Burma border to isolated Akha hill-tribe villages in spectacular settings & to the wonderfully sited Doi Tung Wat.

The King's mother lived here after having spent much of her youth in Switzerland. Upon returning to Thailand she decided to head to the 'Thai alps' & build a Swiss chalet (fit for a King's mother) at around 1700m atop Doi Tung. With wonderful views & a magnificent garden, it leaves a lasting impression. One can visit both the gardens & the Chalet.

The area was inhabited by many tribes (particularly Akha & Lahu) who grew opium for the warlords. The Queen Mother moved the tribes away from opium to growing vegetables, fruit & flowers; to tourism whilst at the same time providing education & health care. Its quite a developed business nowadays producing its own line of coffee, macadamea nuts, clothes, pottery, etc., & employing around 1500 folk from the hill-tribes.

27/06/2009 - PHI TA KHON

2009-06-27T08:40:00+01:00

We're back, after an epic 1500km round trip in 2 days; mother-in-law, aged 90, belting it out with the best of us all the way!

A great drive to the S-E of Chiang Mai, out past Phrae (yep, Myriama stopped to buy the famous & distinctive 'seua maw hawm', an indigo dyed cotton farmer's shirt seen all over). Although we've passed this way before, I am taken aback each time by how different it can look. This time, with the passing of the rain, it is just so GREEN; the mountains magestic in their blue. The area around Phrae is also famous for its teak & its wonderful to see the old farm buildings built from this exceptional wood.

Lovely drive through the mountains from there down to Dan Sai, drawn to a town & festival which Lonely Planet describes as ' for 362 days a year, Dan sai is an innoculous little town.....but for 3 days, its the site of one of the country's liveliest & loudest festivals'.

Phi Ta Khon is certainly unique, certainly colourful! Its a fertility festival, one in which the locals, blessed by the monks, seek the blessing of the 'spirits' to ensure fertility not only of the land (through good rains, a good harvest, & so on) but also of the population (through many children......). After a number of buddhist ceremonies, the locals complete the transfer into spirits through dressing up in the most colourful of costumes, adorned with massive, but unique, grotesque masks (made from rice & coconut husks) in every imaginable colour. Then, fueled by plenty of local rice wine & whisky, the spirits dance their way up through the main street, loud music added to by all sorts of whistles & bells....

The spirits carrying exaggerated sculptured penises, wave them about the place especially at any girls (& tourists) along the route. There are 2 huge 'figures', one male & one female, clearly so, as witnessed by their exaggerated sexual organs. The whole (nice) rabble heads up to the Wat/temple & circumambulate in a continuous motion, all the time getting more & more rowdy. There's plenty of sexual innuendo with older village woman taking turns, amid shrieks of laughter, to shake the lengthy penis of the large male figure.

You can well imagine this event is 'fairly packed'. Many arrive from surrounding villages on their small cc motor-bikes; a great way to see the event & enjoy the country-side.

That should be enough to wet your apetites, or, at least, make you laugh. We drove home through acre after acre of rice paddies (no wonder Thailand is the world's biggest exporter); the colour of growing rice is the most beautiful of greens. We felt blesssed driving through the miles of sun-lit green plains set against the backdrop of the blue-grey sky of an approaching (massive) tropical storm.

15/06/2009 WHITE BUFFALO

2009-06-15T10:37:00+01:00

I best start with a cultural note - for Thais, there are certain 'no nos' associated with the feet which are regarded as the lowest/dirtiest part of the body - one takes one's shoes off when entering a home, one can't point one's feet at a Buddha image, never step over someone or their personal belongings, never stop something from blowing away with one's feet......

Yesterday we were at the markets with our neighbouring Thai friend, Pong. I love the ambience of the markets, food of such incredible variety, of such unparalled freshness & at prices that defy belief. The array of choice & of colour is astounding. Thailand must be the best place, bar none, to eat & to eat well. Its so easy to see that this is a country of cultivaters; the first civilisation on earth to have engaged in agriculture. The markets represent a real microcosm of Thai society.

The market was its usual busy self, though I noticed that not only were motorbikes moving along the tiny & exceptionally busy alleyways amongst the vendors, but, on this occassion, a number of cars also, which gave shoppers absolutely no space in which to move.

We did our shopping & headed home. That night, after a couple of high octane beers, Pong suddenly started to tell a story to the other Thais there-present which went something like this:

'When we were at the markets this morning, we were rushing about the place when a car suddenly came by. With no-where to move quickly & so as to avoid the car, Roderick (or Loderlick as Pong says it) simply took a giant step over produce laid out in two big baskets in front of this little old lady vendor. She, unbeknown to Loderlick, was markedly upset, & I (ie Pong) immediately overheard her saying:'The big white buffalo just walked straight over my stand; that's ruined my luck & good-fortune for today's market.....'

The Thais (at home for the bbq) all burst into great laughter; & yes, I was now known as 'White Buffalo'. Pong explained that he'd been embarrassed to mention what had happened beforehand. He mentioned he'd spoken with the (distraught) lady & explained that as a farang (westerner) I didn't realise what I was doing....that all would be well.

I thought 'White Buffalo' had a certain ring to it, until one of the Thais then laughingly explained that, for them a buffalo represents the greatest ignorance & stupidity! White Buffalo will be heading back to the markets tomorrow to buy a little something from this 'little old lady', if she doesn't first, flee in fear at seeing me1

07/05/2009 - BANGKOK AND PATTAYA

2009-05-07T08:43:00+01:00

Hi all,

Just back from around 2500klms down to Bangkok to collect Myriama's mother who has flown over from Tahiti to see us aged 89!

Sped down to BKK stopping just at Lop Buri en route - its true, the place is FULL of monkeys causing mayhem! Its a great site; out of control. One cant help but laugh (heaps)!

In to BKK next morning - I'd planned a medical check-up but a series of balls-ups & my getting lost on the expressways without a map led us to decide to head south for the beaches. Planned to go to Hua Hin, but got lost once more, so took the easy option & headed to Pattaya which actually suited us being closer to the airport for the following day's pick-up.

Its true, Pattaya absolutely rocks & it does make King's X look like Sunday School! A stroll along 'walking street' at the southern end of the beach is unforgettable! Bars, girls & more girls, ladyboys, anything you can imagine.........great setting with bars openning up onto the beach, great restos everywhere, nightlife at its max!

To be sure to get some sleep we stayed at Jomtiem Beach, 1klm south of Pattaya. Swam & had a great meal & plenty of beers whilst lounging in deck-chairs on the beach watching a marvellous sunset.

Drove slowly up to the airport the next day lunching on the docks of a small fishing village along the way. The plane was late so had a great massage whilst waiting.

Today is Visakha Eve - Visakha marks the day of Buddha's birth, death & enlightenment; its the biggest day on the Buddha calendar. Here in CM its something special - thousands of 'pilgrims' accompany thousands of monks as they walk up Doi Suthep to the temple over-looking CM. Matters get underway at 7.59pm (dont ask me why its 7.59!) with walkers arrive at the temple around 2-3 am (yep, HUGE breakfast). I shot over on the bike for a geeek at around 5.30pm - AMAZING!!!!!!!! The road leading up past the Uni to Doi-Suthep is FULL of flowers & other 'offerings'; food & drink stalls line the route up the mountain; areas are set aside for prayers/reflection, places with fans, seating for the tired, transport if necessary, ambulances, areas even to buy new shoes if necessary......I felt compelled to go right to the top.

Headed back down knowing I'd be back later! Brilliantly prepared floats, Thai (girl) dancers in traditional costume, groups transporting buddha figures, elephant figures, music along the way.......carnival time.

Home to a quick bite/to grab the bride - ready to head off just before 8.30pm & BANG, the BIGGEST storm we've seen. Can imagine the fun they are all having.......

Love Thailand; something new every day!

13/04/2009 - KING'S CUP ELEPHANT POLO

2009-04-13T08:55:00+01:00

The King's Cup Elephant Polo - headed off early from home north to Chiang Saen on the mighty Mekong River, then up to Sop Ruak, to where 3 countries -Thailand, Burma & Laos - meet mid-stream in the Mekong. Starving we grabbed a quick Thai lunch overlooking the Mekong before heading to the Anantara Resort for the game.

Its quite a buzz to arrive to see elephants rather than polo ponies, mahout rather than grooms. There's a web-site if you wish to learn more on the game - size of the ground, number of chukkas, handicaps, rules in general....so I want go into the detail here. Apart from that it was 'very polo' - all the Geoffreys, Russels, James & Hamishes (no Fred's, Jim's....) were there, all pronounced with an English accent that was music to the ears. Viewing areas built from bamboo & teak - great feel; exceptionally comfortable seating; great music.....overall a good feel. Moet were sponsoring a team & 'hats off', they plied free champagne to all present, all afternoon. EXCELLENT!

We spent some time with the elephants between chukkas; 'close encounters' stuff. To see these guys 'swimming' in the river with just their trunk visible is a knock-out! And yes, of course, Moana was soon bareback atop one of these beasts.....what a pity she didn't have a change of clothing when a quick swim was proposed!

The polo, especially the final was great fun. The elephants 'fairly motor' (love the Okerisms) about the pitch; polo stick length varies greatly according to elephant size. There's an advantage in having previously played polo.....& the Moet flows!

Prize-giving is another memorable moment - one (yes its very English) has the chance to mingle mid-field with the players & elephants whilst waiters tempt 'one' with complimentary beers &, of course Pimms. Its an amusing moment to drop one's guard for an instant & find an elephant's trunk trying to take your beer, your camera or simply resting its trunk on your head!

We'll be back; to play next time!

12/04/2009 - SONGKRAN

2009-04-12T08:53:00+01:00

Trust you haven't overdone the hot-cross buns & Easter eggs.

Up bright & early, looking forward to our, no doubt, very wet first Songkran - planning a walk through the central areas a little later to coincide with the procession of the buddhas for the traditional 'bathing'/purification.

Ducked down town yesderday to quickly grab something for home & returned drenched. All in great fun! There is no escape; & who would want to escape! Every major entry into town is set up with water roadside & all those who pass have buckets of water thrown over them, much to the amusement of all. Those in the cars retaliate with massive water pistols - these are like canons; those on bikes hang on tightly! As one approaches town an added festival atmosphere greets you - massive stages set up for concerts, food stalls have sprung up everywhere. Interestingly the supermarket i ducked into had masses of huge ice-filled fridges/eskies chock-a-block with beers & all types of 'coolers' - you know, its going to be HUGE!

So we headed into the BIGGEST water throwing event of all time. it seems that everyone is out & about on the streets. 100s of 1000s of merry-makers; from families, through school kids to the elderly, everyone wringing wet, everyone smiling & in good spirits; yet a sense of awareness of the 'comfort' of others, of one's 'responsabilities' in throwing water about the place. Its a buzz, well worth the hit-out; of course we'd do it again - in fact, tomorrow cant come quickly enough! Its good to be young!!!

Amidst the water files the Procession of Buddhas; some 55 from various temples clarifying the concept of purification through water. The sight of the 'fully decorated' young boys who are to enter the monkhood & the pride this holds for the parents is serene. Rock bands playing/people dancing everywhere & not a drop of water in sight; the food outlets left dry as are any elderly seeking to pass.......how good is it to see simple good fun reign rather than have a great event ruined by a bunch of 'geese'!

We returned home, grabbed a motorbike & headed straight back! WET WET WET - on a motorbike you're everyone's target!

Happy Songkran.....wait until you feel icy cold water slipping, unexpectantly, down your back.

07/03/2009 - TRIP IN LAOS

2009-03-07T08:57:00+00:00

LAOS

(A little aside before starting....I was in the garden when a noise of some intensity broke out. It sounded like the most dreadful stuff-up in the household waterworks; it was all surrounding. Ultimately we found it to be cicadas! It is an unbelievable din, something I've not experienced, even in Oz. There's another cicarda which makes this screatching noise like your brakes are shot - not good on a steep descent on motorbike!).

What a trip; WHAT A TRIP! Headed from Chiang Mai to Phitsanulok then out along the 'Green Route'; how good is this route out through the rice paddies, along the rapids, past the waterfalls, through the mountain views. Looked enviously out towards Tab Berk, the absolutely mind-blowingly positioned Hmong tribe village atop the massive/sheer mountain (Commo military headquarters up to the 1980's) but this time we were headiing for Khao Kho for the evening. Khao Kho is another top spot; canother 'little Switzerland'. High up, great views & surrounded by quality homes, resorts & health farms. We had a magic red, red, red sunset & also some red to wash it all down!

We were away next morning through UNFORGETTABLE scenery on the descent through the ranges. We were heading back to the mighty Mekong River via Dan Sai. Lonely Planet says of Dan Sai :'for 362 days a year, DS is an innoculous little town......for the remaining 3 days, its the site of one of Thailand's liveliest & loudest festivals.' They hold a 'Spirits Festival' (its all, 'they say', to summon some supernatural spirit) in June (depending on the full moon) - a boisterous, dance-filled procession, (LOTS of) spirits (the other kind) to get everyone in the mood for what's to come....lots of colour & costumes including 2 central (almost 4m high) figures, one male & one female as is clear from their 'huge, exagerated sexual organs' as LP puts it. Apparently the procession reaches the wat/temple, tins & cow-bells increasing the racket....whilst circling the wat there's abundant sexual inuendo with, to again quote LP 'older village woman, laughing all the time, taking turns grabbing the lengthy male penis'...... You know where to find us in June!!!

Arriving at the Mekong we found accommodation between the river towns of Chiang Khan & Nong Khai - rustic bambooo bungalows out over the Mekong (owner told us the river can rise 50 feet!!!! Did you know that in parts the Mekong is 15klms wide!) This was a MAGIC spot; you can not imagine how it was to look out from bed the next morning over the Mekong to a brilliant red sunrise reflecting on one of the world's great rivers. All for $8/bungalow/night. How can people travel otherwise?

Down along the Mekong to Nong Khai the next morning to cross over (bridge) to Laos. The Thais profit from the dry season/lower river levels to plant/harvest a quick crop along any available river-bed. The locals complain that China has built a massive dam upstream greatly affecting water flow, & 'life' in & of the river itself. This very dam is blamed for the floods in China that caused so many (million) deaths & in turn flooded Laos, Burma, Thailand & Cambodia when the Chinese 'released the gates'.

It was Saturday when we arrived in NK to learn that we could only get 'passports' for cars Mon-Fri! Stuff it; we grabbed the minimum gear & headed over by bus with the intention of hiring transport in Laos. Crossing the bridge we had to stop & watch a train cross, deviated from a track alongside the road (where it would logically continue) to smack bang in the middle thereof! Apparently its that way as Thailand/Laos couldn't agree where the track should run!

Not having a car proved no problem, we hired a huge 10 seater 'wog waggon' including driver (proved a very good move); the guy chauffered us through Laos, day & night, for the next 6 days at what it costs to hire a mini in Sydney! We drove up to Vientiane, immediately sensing the French influence with massive Arc de Triomphe & Champs Elysee equivalents, French administrative buildings strategically placed, street names in french, (excellent) french food, many speaking french. Its annoying, however, in places to witness the effects of looting over the centuries; its sad to see the culture of a people stolen in this manner.

It is thought provoking being in a country such as Laos. Its so different being under a communist regime; so different to what we know/think 'outside', & remember, Laos was only opened to tourists in 1989. The road from Vientiane to Vang Vieng & on to Luang Prabang which we were about to take is perhaps not surprisingly named Hwy 13 & is virtually the only sealed road (sometimes pot-holed) of any significance in the country. This is a truly wonderful journey - cattle wonder freely all over the roads, in & out of houses & even into shops, as do piglets, chickens, goats/kids, water buffalo.... The road climbs up through the mountains past hill-tribe settlement after hill-tribe settlement with the villages constructed literally at the edge of the road. From the car its a window into tribal life, almost 'live'. Houses all of teak with bamboo walls & thatched roofs, communal showers 'road-side', residents go happily about their lives. Kids & babies everywhere - a real worry that one could run over a child if not extremely vigilant.

If this was not good enough the sudden descent into Vang Vieng is a drop-dead, gob-smacking! The setting here is staggering, a mountain range to dream about, a beautiful river, unforgetable sunsets. Transport, pleasing to the eye, is still very much the bicycle. We bunked in up-river from town; a quick river swim under the moon-light, then off to bed over-excited about what the next day would surely hold.

Grabbed canoes the next morning for around a 10klm paddle downstream to the main town; a paddle of rare & exceptional beauty. Bamboo foot-bridges hang across the river into the fields, tribal woman gather algae whilst men spear fish & collect shells, over the odd rapid or two, on past a meditating buddhist devotee perched in the lotus position on simply the railing of his hotel verandah, & all this whilst framed by the most magnificent mountain scenery imaginable. We continued down to the 'tubing' area for which Vang Vieng is famous or infamous depending on your age - the bars along the river-side, blasting out the rock music, where the booze is cheap & (very) plentiful, bodies in riverside hammocks, people in 'tubes' along the river, massive trapeses set up along the river - you'd want a belly full to muster up the courage to try these monsters! We had dinner in town that night, long into the night watching the covered utes arrive loaded with the massive tubes on their roofs & the pick-up full of totally pissed, bikini or boardshort clad, singing tubers. Takes one back, n'est ce pas!

On to Luang Prabang - WHAT A DRIVE; this one is beyond supurlatives. This is truly mountain scenery at its BEST, scenery at its most spectacular best. Tribal villages alone continue; their inhabitants moving by foot about the steep hills they've cleared to cultivate. Woman head off to work the hill-sides, babies strapped to their backs; older woman remaining in the villages preparing plant materials to be used for roofing. The kids, & there are many of hem (shows the 'advantage' of no TV) seem very close, often moving about the place arms around each other, laughing away. Upon reflection one is left with the impression that their lives, their inner beings, are touched positively, despite their poverty & the relative harshness of their existence, in a way long disappeared from a commercial, materialistic world.

Luang Prabang - INCREDIBLE place; the former capital of Laos that has been & continues to be restored by UNESCO as part of World Heritage. Set magnificently on the Mekong, full of history, tremendous temples, wonderful restaurants, chic shops & resorts 'a la France'. To witness the massive sea of orange at 6.30 in the morning as lines of monks undertake taak baat is special.

We decided to return to Vientiane by the way we had come - a descending drive is often more rewarding visually - intending to stop at 1 of only 2 potential accommodation choices we had seen on the road between Vang Vieng & Luang Prabang. We'd spotted a cluster of 5 rustic bungalows, set amidst a magestic mountain backdrop alongside what appeared to be a nice pond, with a small (associated) restaurant alongside. We arrived after a spectacular mountain-top sunset.

This proved to be one of the finds of the trip; one of those inexplicable situations that just 'work'. The tucker was great, those helping us so warm, the surroundings unbeatable & the pond proved to be a natural hot spa! We had a birthday falling on the next day. After dinner, we uncorked the several bottles of (birthday present) red we'd bought in LP, headed into the hot spa & drank the red down until after midnight, singing 'happy birthday' as loud as can be without a worry. Magic moment & the most memorable of birthdays. (I'm no 'natural medicine geek', but I (indeed we all) felt good after this lengthy spa (or was it the red) - relaxed muscles, even bones, a softness of the skin.....

Up the next morning, sore heads but made instantly better on seeing just where this place was set - fantastic. Hate to tell you but the bungalows cost $AUD5.50/night, whilst the meals (for 7 people!) - dinner, including beers & a few shots of local whiskey, & a full breakfast of fruit, eggs, toast, tea or coffee totalled $AUD30!

In Vientiane we knew of a comfortable resort owned & operated by a french couple - the wife used to run the Crazy Horse in Paris, whilst her husband lived from royalties made from writing songs for Eric clapton, Johnny Halliday, etc. An interesting team! They bought (?) it would seem around 5 hectares back in the early 1990s, when there were only half a dozen (?) cars in Vientiane & had built a great set-up with pools, jaccusis, exercise 'beach', huge comfortable bungalows, fantastic garden......The wife was a lovely, soft, charming woman who looked after a dozen abandoned ponies & had brought the squirrels (previously hunted by the locals), birds & butterflies back to the resort. She had the same caring approach to her staff - one of the staff (27 years old) told us just how excited he'd been last year when she'd paid for him to fly, for the first & only time in his life, home to see his family. A girl, also 27, also worked there - she had never flown; a trip home for her took 72 hours by bus. She couldn't go home this year as she needed to save for her studies. She is quite stunning & the lady running the place has guided her (despite all the foreigners chasing her) to understand that the way 'out' for her is education. The lady is paying for her law studies & she'll graduate next year after 5 years study.

Always good to end on a wonderful story!

17/02/2009 - MAE SOT & DOI INTHANON

2009-02-17T10:36:00+00:00

Just back from around 1000klms of travel heading south from Chiang Mai down through some great scenery to Tak where we found a vibrant market humming along the shores of a great river setting then on to Mae Sot where one can cross into Burma.

Mae Sot is fairly non-descript but there's always a certain buzz about border-crossings - watching the 'wheelers & dealers' moving across the borders; 'investigating' the deals that are on offer & so on. Amusing having 'urgers' trying to flog you all & anything along the river, watching certain 'farang' (westerners) working the system, seeing more farang trying to out-wit the local stone dealers....... There's some interesting shopping, especially in materials whose availability varies between & within the countries concerned; teak is a good example at present.

A quick walk over to Burma for some $1 CDs & DVDs before returning to head north to Mae Sariang. Magnificent scenery along this route, by the river/s, past hot springs, fabulous rolling agricultural country as well as a camp in a magic setting at the foot of some spectacular mountains for Burmese refugees. Their homes are all constructed from local materials - teak frames, bamboo walls & roofing from large leaves growing in the mountains (sorry, must get more precise info on the tree concerned!) To see the Burmese woman in their sarongs lugging huge leaf filled baskets belted to their foreheads is an experience. It creates the impression that one has just stumbled across a tribe (in their thousands!) all living in, & constructing from, the jungle.

We stayed the night very comfortably on the riverside at Mae Sariang before heading off early the next day for Doi Inthanon, Thailand's highest mountain at 2565m. The airforce has built a couple of chedis up there - one for each of the King & the Queen, to celebrate their respective 60th birthdays. Wonderful gardens & exceptional views out over Asia!

We headed down-hill for lunch stopping at a restaurant we'd found by chance when hit by rain one day whilst motorbiking up to Doi Inthanon - looking quickly for shelter/accommodation. Some of the local Hmong tribe suggested the 'Royal Project' site nearby; an agricultural project set up by the King to provide a viable alternative to opium growing for the hill-tribes. Up behing/through the tribe we stumbled across the site (Royal Project) with its wonderful garden, where they grow all sorts of flowers, produce all sorts of fruit & vegies, grow their own trout & even their own red wine! Black swans on the dam, a lovely restuarant setting serving produce from the project, surrounded by a huge waterfall, some great accommodation....what more do you need!

22/01/2009 - NORTHERN THAILAND

2009-01-22T09:01:00+00:00

Just spent 10 days cruising through northern Thailand - 2300klms through some great spots, wonderful scenery, & with not a cop or radar in sight - a reconnaisance trip to determine to where we wish to return!

Headed north-west from Chiang Mai to Doi Ang Khang - Thailand's "Little Switzerland" - 1300m above sea level, right on the border with Burma. We took the back roads through Arunothai & Tham Ngop; through 3 separate armed border controls, past many an isolated tribal village & surrounded by some great scenery. Stopped at Tham Ngop & by sheer chance ran into General Lee's daughter! General Lee headed the KMT who fought Mao/the communists in China before loosing & fleeing ultimately to Thailand. He set up camp permanently in Tham Ngop & his daughter kindly took us on a tour (not open to the public) through the wonderful mud-brick home he'd built, the officers barracks & so on. Having studied in the USA, she gave us a most informative run-down & the place which is full of history. Incredible to imagine life out/up there in the mountains, donkies/ponies still in use - it remains very wild, very isolated, very beautiful.

On to Doi Ang Khang which with its cool year round climate it grows many of the vegies, fruit & flowers normally found in more temperate climates. Production takes place surrounded by a magnificent garden. A market place full of weird & wonderful things, though we were more taken by the 40 degree Lychee schnaps on offer! This is a good spot to 'chill'.

Nearby are several tribal villages, notably those of the Lahu & Palong tribes. The Palong village - Nor Lae - is right on the border where a Thai military outpost faces off against two Burmese army posts. We had hoped to descend to Fang from Nor Lae but the border patrol guards stopped us saying the road descended at around 40 degrees & was in such poor condition that there was no way we would make it! We took the more 'traditional' route down past Fang to Tha Ton, a great little spot on the Mae Nam Kok River, which serves as a launching pad for visits to certain hill-tribes & various river/rapids adventures. Stayed at, yes, Riverview! Great spot on the river with views over the buddhas & magnificently lit chedi for which Tha Ton is known. A visit to the chedi is well worth it given the spectacular view & the wonderful collection of Buddhas sent from throughout the world.

Away early the next morning, we headed up (& up!) to Doi Mae Salong, the most Chinese of Thai towns! Steep & very chinese - more TVs here are tuned into Honk Kong than Bangkok! Surrounded by scenic tea plantations, its a great base from which to explore (off-road bike only) some very remote areas along the Burmese border (take a guide as its easy to cross into Burma/end up in prison) & very remote (mostly Akha) hill-tribes.

We were looking forward to our next destination, the mighty Mekong River, & what a river it is! Cruised into (14th century) Chiang Saen & headed straight for the river. How moving is it to see the Mekong & at a point where the three countries of Thailand, Burma & Laos merge as the river flows down from China. With the massage facilities set-up riverside who could resist - a massage watching the sun set over Laos as the cargo boats from China float by is special. On to the Anantara for a beer & to enquire when the King's Cup Elephant Polo would be staged, then lunch overlooking the river before heading down-stream to an isolated resort - Rai Saeng Arun - for the night. This is a great spot on the Mekong - fabulous/interesting accommodation (way up on bamboo clad mountains, right over the Mekong, or amidst rice paddies, or in/over wonderful ponds....). There's a full-on organic garden & the associated top tucker. We saw photos of where the river rises to in the rainy season - freaky!

Headed south along the river to Chiang Khong - great run with no other traffic, no houses, the best river scenery, just Laos opposite. One can cross into Laos from here - by sandpan which is much fun!

From Chiang Khong we headed back up through the mountains (yep, & the corners) to Phucheefha by now understanding why northern Thailand is regarded as THE BEST motor bike cruising in the world. Phucheefha is not in Lonely Planet, etc (its kept by the Thais for Thais) but, what a spot! Its this mountain/sheer cliff miles up above everything looking out over the valleys of Laos. Its magic. The big buzz is to be there for sunrise, to see the oceans of cloud below you with the peaks of mountains peering through & watch it all slowly unfold to reveal Laos.

Accommodation is limited to A-frames but who cares, sunsets are RED like you've never seen, kids from the tribes come to dance by your room, the monks pass by to receive alms, blessing believers....its a good feeling. We were up at 5am, 8 degrees at the park entrance/probably 5 less on mountain top. Thais of all ages make the climb - kids in their fulll-on tribal colours, barefooted & lightly clad monks with an amazing resilience to the cold.........This is a great & truly unique experience.

Cruised on to Nan feeling great! Went past one 'resort' that was so well located - way up high with a view out over these limestone tors protruding from no-where, a lake in the background. We were taken aback, then left pondering as the hill-tribe couple managing the place continued quietly smoking their opium pipes whilst we cruised about the place.

Fairly stuffed we decided to rest up in Nan for 2 nights. Away from the beaten tourist track, Nan is a quiet, rural affair, great markets; nice (human) feeling & great value. There are some wonderful trips to be found in the surrounding area.

We decided to make the dash to Phitsanulok. Rice paddies; you said rice paddies!!!!! Long, but easy run, we again decided to stay 2 nights. Not many get to Phitsanulok but there's a couple of 'must do's' there. The Chinnarat Buddha is there - even if you are not into temple touring this one is awe inspiring; built in 1357 its the 2nd most venerated Buddha in Thailand; one has to be moved on seeing this one. You should also check out the factory where they make buddahs for all over Thailand. For the less cultured the 'Flying Vegetable Restaurant' is a must - this resto wacks up a vegie concoction in a wok before the chef, looking in the opposite direction, flings it, maybe 20m through the air, to customers waiting atop a clapped out van....or, if you prefer to remain seated, to waiters who catch it on plates to serve you. Very performance orientated, this is a total buzz!

We also rushed along the 'green route' towards Lam Sak - a great outing with incredible views. There's one 'off the track' place, Tab Berk, the site of an Hmong tribe village, where everyone should go!

We were off again for Sukhothai & Si Satchanalai-Chaliang, two UNESCO projects restoring what remains of buildings from the 11th-14th centuries when Sukhothai was the capital & Thailand in its golden age. This is truly a marvel!

Onwards up to Phayao & pigged out by the lake. Not a tourist destination, its a good spot to stroll along the promenade lake-side.

Next day on up to Chiang Rai. How good is the Wat Rong Khun!!!!!!!!! Chalernchai Kositpipat, a renowned Thai artist, decided at 40 years of age he'd devote the rest of his life (& millions of $s) to building this temple white & sparkles with clear mirrored chips. Whereas most temples have centuries of history, CK started this one in 1997. Its AMAZING; instead of traditional Buddha life scenarios, this is full of contemporary scenes, from the moment you cross the bridge (of rebirth) surrounded by 100's of grabbing arms symbolising greed & desire, past figurines symbolising the downfall flowing from lust, to paintings in the temple of planes held by demon-like creatures crashing into the twin towers....CK estimates the whole project will take around 70 years to complete & has trained up an army of followers who he supports totally & who assist him & will finish the work for him once he dies. You have to read CK's reasoning behind all this; far too much to cover here.

Chiang Rai has plenty going on, but this is already too long. We're safely back home, readying ourselves for a myriad of festivals just around the corner.