The most populartrend of the moment, he says, is "clean": no sex, no skin, no violence. "Being weird and being different for different's sake is out. Now it's just people looking good and looking healthy. That's always been the case, but for a while you had heroin chic, and then you had a wild period, then all of a Bvlgari Ergon Chronometer BL-76 it's just being nice and pleasing and attractive. Lots of smiles. Lots of smiles.
"That'll be around for a while, but it all depends on the leader. If you look at when Clinton was in office, it was different from when Reagan was in office. Fashion is an extension of that. When Reagan was in office, it was an opulent time. You couldn't get enough stuff. Couldn't get enough stuff. Then George Bush comes in and says,'This is a quieter time,' and it's a quieter time. All of that opulence and the gowns and jewelry are out. Then Clinton's in office, and it gets wild and sexy. You've got Bush now, and the war, and things are Bvlgari Ergon Ladi Size BL-86."
Some of his favorite photographers, Torres says, are Stefan Ruiz, Norbert Bvlgari Ergon Ladi Size BL-87, Taryn Simon, Mikako, Phil Poynter and Cedric Buchet. "For me, my favorite is Mario Sorrenti. He's somebody I highly respect. Not that I think any photographer is infallible. I don't think any photographer is. People tend to fluctuate between greatness and being just good.
"Advances in technology, including the digital format, have lent credibility to fashion photography and photography in general. The digital camera has pushed photography on film one step up. We all know the great things you can do on the digital format, but to be able to come up with great imagery on film has become more credible."
The art world, Torres says, is a strong influence on fashion imagery. "This has been fueled by advertising agencies. The boutique agencies are looking for a more interesting approach to photography. There are more creatives willing to gamble, and some clients are willing to be more risky. That has fueled the willingness of some agencies to use photography that's not your normal, standard photography. A lot of advertising has brought in art photographers to do fashion work. An example is Camper in Europe, which used to do campaigns with Stefan Ruiz."
In America, fashion imagery has become "safer," says Torres. "It's a little bit too Bvlgari Ergon Quartz Chronograph BL-19 driven. There are not many chances for people to do new stuff. A few publications allow them to do things that aren't too happy-happy, and maybe a little dark. In Europe, they're willing to take risks editorially, but in America the tendency has been to be safe. Everything in life is a cycle, and hopefully things will change."
Though the snapshot look is still around, he says, at Big,"We're into the really high-quality, large-format photography. Quality is the key word right now."
"I have been completely blown away by Nick Knight's work again," notes Derrick. "As an art director, I commission a lot of people, but Nick more than anyone else. [He] takes ideas and makes them magic. He so regularly exceeds my expectations and surprises me."
When asked which cur rent t rends he likes or dislikes, Derrick says he's "sick of over-A.Lange & Sohne Lange 1 Southern Cross ALS-8 and pictures trying too hard to be sexy and just being vulgar. I would like to see more good taste."
What are some influences on fashion imagery? "Fashion photography is being influenced by fashion photography. I have never seen such a period of copying. Maybe there are not enough ideas to go round."